Life isn’t always black and white but many designers the world over were thinking along those lines this season. Not as sombre as you may think for Spring, it was all about the flirt. Inès de la Fressange was a bright light on the Gaultier Couture runway in a one-shoulder tuxedo dress – a great interpretation of both trends.
 JPG also did an airy, fairy dress, structured on the tetrahedrons that fascinated Buckminster Fuller.
 L’Wren Scott opted for a sexier silhouette with her curvy scoop neck day dress. Purrrfect for running Saturday errands?
The skinny black pant is still lurking around (a big sigh of relief from moi). Which do you prefer? Chanel’s dressy, lace and tulle accesorized ones or Yohji’s layered modern city numbers? Â
Ann Demeulemeester – true to her cajh meets complexity nature, mixed long and short proportions – and contrasted a wrapped, soft white shirt with a tougher, lace up shoe. Divine.
The layers at Yohji remind me of the kurtas, wasitcoats and shawls worn by Indian gentlemen near the turn of the 19th century.
Even Dries Van Noten, known for his usual use of colour and prints, sent a simple statement of black and white down the runway. If it were not for the brilliant gold embellishement and the easier, wider, hip slung pant, I would have been worried for our colourful friend Dries.
Designers embedded spiritual sentiments into their wares this season, telling us to wear wisdom along with whimsy. Satya Paul got downright scholarly…
…and Yohji tells us to calm our minds, with a painted aakash mudra hand on the back of a jacket.
So while things may not be black and white, is it safe to say that they are looking up for Spring?
- Yohji Yamamoto Menswear SS09
