Déjà Vu: Dovima vs. Ms. Moss

So while we wait for the September British Vogue, let’s review our August homework, shall we?

Here is the first shoot with Mrs. Hince – as photographed by Mario Testino for the August issue of the Vogue with the accent.

This might be the new Ms. Moss – but this whole editorial had me doing a déjà vu – a Dovima déjà vu.

Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme.com
Not a stance of circumstance.
Dovima May 1952 from Vogue Conde Nast Archive on exshoesme.com
No one cast a figure like the lovely Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba, better known as Dovima.
Dovima, 1955 on exshoesme.com
Dovima, 1955 – in The colour for this season. And don’t even get me started on the suit.
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (2)
The burnt-orange clad bride. Echoes of a rich and colourful past, in that pose.
Dovima  in Hannah Troy Gown on exshoesme.com
“Who stole my heart?”
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (5)
“You did, you did.” And oh, where have I seen that suit silhouette before, I wonder?
Dovima, 1951 from Conde Nast Archive on exshoesme.com
Maroon, how I hunger for you. I’m stocking up this year!
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (3)
Collar ID – one call you’ll want to answer. The frou of a ruffle without the frou.
Dovima for Maximillian, 1951 on exshoesme.com
The big collar, circa 1951.
Dovima for Juilliard, 1951 on exshoesme.com
She spoke paragraphs with one gesture.
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (4)
Look who’s talking now. And that skirt. I know. It’s by Mr. Ford.
Dovima, 1953 on exshoesme.com
Note the placement of hands here…
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (10)
…and here.
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (6)
Kate makes it look like a cinch.
Dovima by Horst on exshoesme.com
…and speaking of all things cinched…
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (7)
The stare to nowhere…
Dovima, 1956 on exshoesme.com
…takes a girl everywhere.
Dovima, 1950s on exshoesme.com
I love the covered-up sexiness of the ’50s.
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (8)
I’m happy to report its return this season. Big time sensuality, in my book.
Dovima in Balenciaga on exshoesme.com
Dovima in yards and yards of Balenciaga, back in the day, for evening.
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (9)
No longer sleeveless in Seattle – or Stockholm. Nothing like the slink of silk, I say.
Dovima in March, 1950 Vogue on exshoesme.com
It’s all very lady-like, really. It fits us like, well, a glove.
Kate Moss by Mario Testino for British Vogue August 2011 on exshoesme (11)
The new power dressing – no need to blush – you, too can pull this off by putting it on. Pop tarts, take note.

The mass appeal of Dovima at the time, a Supermodel well before the word was coined, was undeniable. She defined elegance and wore clothes in a way that really allowed us to dream. These iconic photographs of her exemplify the very best in photography, in modeling, in style – in modernity – more than 60 years after they were taken.

The Moss appeal, too is undeniable. Since those images of a young Kate shot by Corinne Day and the emergence of Heroin Chic, this woman has carried us from the Supermodel heyday and grown up in front of our eyes.  While she and Mr. Testino surely give a nod to Dovima here, she too, is already an icon. Love her or hate her, but her place in fashion history, in modeling history, in style – stands on record – and will stand the test of time – 60 years from now.

And incidentally, this isn’t the first time I’ve done a Dovima double take.

More Kate. And yes, yes, I owe you my thoughts on her nuptials. Getting caught up slowly…promise.

Kate photos courtesy of British Vogue; Dovima in Balenciaga from Joao Chaves Spot. All other Dovima images courtesy of My Vintage Vogue – a wonderland of vintage fashion images and a constant source of inspiration.

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