Fashion, style, painting, art, literature, beautiful objets – these were her immersions.
Dali, Giacometti, Man Ray, Cocteau, Duchamp and Steichen comprised her inner circle.
Dietrich, Hepburn, Bacall, Éluard, Gréco and the Duchess of Windsor were among her customers.
For designer Elsa Schiaparelli, it wasn’t a question of whether fashion was art, as we so often debate today. Both worlds existed equally and in concert in her world. Such was her surreality. She fashioned herself an artistic life and now, some of the accoutrements of that life are up for auction.
Christie’s Paris is hosting an auction of The Personal Collection of Elsa Schiaparelli, the evening of January 23rd. A collection of approximately 180 lots, from matador-inspired mode to furnishings (French Second Empire, svp) to a Dada portrait of the patron – a solarized study by her buddy, Man Ray, are up for bid.
Schiaparelli’s granddaughter, Marisa Berenson (yes, she) decided, “There comes a time when you want to let go of things, because life changes. I think my grandmother’s personal belongings will inspire future generations; this is an extraordinary and fascinating legacy.”
A legacy, yes, and oh, what a lineage, too. Schiaparelli’s mother descended from the Medicis (yes, those) and Elsa was raised amongst aristocrats and even an astronomer (her grandfather).
Planets, stars and cosmic motifs were recurring themes in her collections. Surely the bidding will be sky high for this silk blouse, from her 1939 Astrologie collection.
That Lesage embroidery is out of this world, no?
Her other collaborators were no less stellar РRoger Vivier for shoes, Marcel Vert̬s for illustration and advertising, Jean Schlumberger for jewellery. Inspired by these contemporaries, her coterie of creative confidantes, and well, the universe, Elsa was known for her innovative designs and techniques.
Knitwear, visible zippers, culottes (!) led the growth of what was initially an apartment-run business into a brand that still resonates today. The House of Schiaparelli just showed their first couture collection in 60 years a few days ago, as part of Couture Week in Paris.
She was also inspired by many of the cultures in this world – as both her designs and items from her own closet show. Included below are examples from both, all of which are included in the Christie’s sale.
A Chinese jacket she owned, above, and a cheongsam she designed, below.
A scarlet 20th Century Japanese kimono she owned, above and her take, during the 1950s, below.
From the looks of this lot, she had a wonderful collection of wedding ensembles and other festive garments also.
I have a quilted Chinese brocade jacket in gold and fuchsia (trimmed in a sable-coloured fur), which I shall covet a little more closely now that I’ve seen the kaftan (and Schiaparelli’s violet cheongsam) above.
The kurta below, is perhaps the one that I love most. You can take the girl out of India, but…
Her eye was impeccable. I love the pieces from this collection that show her love of clean lines, too.
Her life, not just this auction, seems to have been well curated.
There is definite frou-frou in places, but never frivolity. Amongst this collection of covetable objects, is an adoration for visual culture, for history, for exploration, but most of all, for beauty.
These are artifacts of a beautiful life, well-lived. Thanks to Ms. Berenson, we also get to experience a little bit of that life.
This auction is for lovers of fashion, art and the avant-gardians among us, but my dears, with all those ups and downs, bidding is not for the faint-hearted.
See the full e-catalogue which includes furnishings, accessories and other decorative arts, and get lost in Elsa’s world.
With files from Christie’s, various biographies including Wikimedia and Schiaparelli.com.
All images are © Christie’s Images Limited 2014 and are used with permission.
